Kanchenjunga. Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner and Sherpa Ang Dorje reached the summit of Kanchenjunga on May 6 without the use of artificial oxygen. They climbed the north face and north ridge, partially on the Japanese route, partially new. They had two camps and above them, two bivouacs. In making this ascent, Messner reached the summit on his seventh different 8000er. On the descent, Mutschlechner suffered a frozen right hand and left foot and had to be flown back to Austria for treatment.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley