Readme Last Updated: 22 Oct. 2016
By Gabriel Staples, http://www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com
-My contact info is available by clicking the "Contact Me" tab at the top of my website.

-see Arduino_TV_B_Gone.ino for full version history

Semver (http://semver.org/) VERSION HISTORY (newest on top):
(date format: yyyymmdd; ex: 20161022 is 22 Oct. 2016)

• 20161022 - v1.3 - Semver versioning implemented; various code updates, clarifications, & comment additions, and changes to fix PROGMEM incompatibilities so it will now compile with latest versions of gcc compiler; also improved blink indicator routines & added the ability to stop the code-sending sequence once it has begun; by Gabriel Staples (http://www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com)
• 20101023 - v1.2 - Latest version posted by Ken Shirriff on his website here (http://www.righto.com/2010/11/improved-arduino-tv-b-gone.html) (direct download link here: http://arcfn.com/files/arduino-tv-b-gone-1.2.zip)
• 20101018 - v1.2 - Universality for EU (European Union) & NA (North America) added by Mitch Altman; sleep mode added by ka1kjz
• 2010____ - v1.2 - code ported to Arduino; by Ken Shirriff
• 20090816 - v1.2 - for ATtiny85v, by Mitch Altman & Limor Fried (https://www.adafruit.com/), w/some code by Kevin Timmerman & Damien Good

This code is the TV-B-Gone library ported to run on the Arduino.

-see Arduino_TV_B_Gone.ino for latest version history & more details.

Updated code to fix PROGMEM incompatiblities--now works with latest versions of gcc compiler & Arduino IDE -with other improvements also By Gabriel Staples (http://www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com)

This port to Arduino is by Ken Shirriff.
For background details on the Arduino port, how to build it, and how to use it, see:

• http://www.arcfn.com/2009/12/tv-b-gone-for-arduino.html and here:
• http://www.righto.com/2010/11/improved-arduino-tv-b-gone.html (newer)

For information on the original TV-B-Gone see:
http://www.tvbgone.com/. Mitch Altman is the inventor of the original TV-B-Gone.

The original code is:
TV-B-Gone Firmware version 1.2
for use with ATtiny85v and v1.2 hardware
(c) Mitch Altman + Limor Fried 2009
Last edits, August 16 2009

Added universality for EU or NA, and Sleep mode to Ken's Arduino port.
-- Mitch Altman 18-Oct-2010
Thanks to ka1kjz for the code for adding Sleep
http://www.ka1kjz.com/561/adding-sleep-to-tv-b-gone-code/

With some code from:
Kevin Timmerman & Damien Good 7-Dec-07

Distributed under Creative Commons 2.5 -- Attribution & Share Alike

-NB: SEE "main.h" TO VERIFY DEFINED PINS TO USE
The hardware for this project uses an Arduino:

• Connect an IR LED to pin 3 (IRLED).
• Connect a visible LED to the pin 13 (or use the built-in LED in many Arduinos).
• Connect a push-button between pin 2 (TRIGGER) and ground.
• Pin 5 (REGIONSWITCH) must be left floating for North America, or wire it to ground to have it output European codes.

• The TV-B-Gone for Arduino can use either the EU (European Union) or the NA (North America) database of POWER CODES
• EU is for Europe, Middle East, Australia, New Zealand, and some countries in Africa and South America
• NA is for North America, Asia, and the rest of the world not covered by EU
• Let pin 5 float for NA codes, or wire it to ground to have it send EU codes
• Serial debugging output can be activated by setting "DEBUG 0" to "DEBUG 1" in "main.h"
• For 8 MHz Arduinos, define DELAY_CNT as 11 in "main.h," or use 25 for 16 MHz Arduinos.
• Fine-tune if necessary
• All IR codes are defined in "WORLD_IR_CODES.h"
• We'd love to have you add more! Just be careful NOT to duplicate codes please!

• When the device is first powered on, it will quick-flash (30ms on-time followed by 250ms off-time) 3 times if set to output NA (North America) codes, or 6 times for EU (European Union) codes. See the end of the "setup()" function.
• Once on, the device will enter sleep mode, where it will remain until a button press occurs on the TRIGGER pin, at which point it will wake up and send all of its power codes for the region set according to the state of the REGIONSWITCH pin.
• Once you press the TRIGGER button (on pin 2), all power codes will be sent sequentially, one after the other. Note that the trigger button debouncing is done in a very primitive fashion, so quick button presses and releases (<500ms) may work best. If you just hold down the button, the code sending sequence will be continually started, stopped, and started again, since a button press during code sending is used to stop the sending sequence.
• After each individual IR power code is sent, a quick flash will occur on the visible LED (30ms on-time) to indicate a code was just sent. Therefore, as the codes are sent, you will see the visible LED flash repeatedly.
• Once all codes have been sent (which takes around 60 sec or so), a ~1.3 sec pause followed by 8 quick flashes will occur to indicate that all power codes have been sent. Then, the device will go back into sleep mode until another TRIGGER button press occurs.
• Between individual power codes, the TRIGGER button is read one time. If it is read as pressed (LOW), the code sending sequence will be stopped early. This will be indicated by a ~705ms delay followed by 4 quick-flashes, followed by another ~1.3 sec delay to give you time to release the button.
• NB: since the TRIGGER button is only read between individual codes, rather than continuously, you may need to hold down the button for a half-second to second or so for it to be read properly as pressed. Once the delay and 4 quick-flashes begin, you can release the button, and the power codes will be stopped. The device will enter back into sleep mode. Press the button again to begin the code sequence again from the beginning.
• NB: If you keep holding the button, however, this will be read as a new button-press in the main loop and the sequence will be restarted. Therefore, continually holding the button will just keep starting and stopping and starting again the sending sequence, repeatedly.